My Plate & Place with… Sudi Pigott

Sudi, the self-styled Anchovy Evangelist is running London’s first ever anchovy tutored tastings and is holding an anchovy dinner at Caldesi in Marylebone on Wednesday 19 August.

Describe your perfect day in London?

I would make a leisurely start with a coffee in my garden in Balham admiring the scent and beauty of the roses. Breakfast would be at the gorgeous Le Café by Nicholas Rouzard which is so cleverly designed to look like a piece of exquisite viennoisserie. I’d have a Madagascar vanilla curd and pecan brioche.

It is conveniently close to the Royal Academy ready for taking in an exhibition. ‘Painting the French Riviera’ highlighting the allure of the carefree glamour and extraordinary light that so inspired artists from Matisse to Cezanne. Afterwards I will have a browse in their shop and be tempted by some of its beautiful jewellery.

Lunch will be people watching on the terrace of The Arlington eating my favourite steak tartare with a dry martini. During the afternoon, I will have a mooch around some of my favourite department stores: Fortnum & Mason for food and perfume, Liberty for clothes I can’t afford and John Lewis for those I can.

I’d be peckish enough to order a scone for a tea in the parlour at Sketch. I know they will be good as my partner The Sconeman in London makes them fresh each morning, up to 500 or 600 daily.

My perfect day would end with a trip to the theatre or some jazz at the 606 Club.

Favourite restaurant?

An almost impossible question as it depends on the occasion and my mood. I love restaurants where I feel very welcome but also love the thrill of the first visit.

My top familiar favourites include L’Escargot for Sunday lunch with huge Yorkshire puddings and chocolate souffle for dessert.

Cocochine, where Larry Jayasekare’s mix of classic technique and Sri Lankan heritage and ingredients is thrillingly original and heartfelt. The XXL scallops are truly enormous and luscious, caramelised only on one side, cooked to medium rare perfection and served over braised kombu with pickled girolles and crisp Alsace bacon with a bacon sabayon and spiced scallop and coconut cream.

Benares where the food and setting are exquisite – wild sea bass biryani en croute is technically superb – and Sameer Taneja has to be one of London’s kindest and loveliest chefs.

Among very new restaurants, I loved my first visit to Maza in Mayfair, a retro-inspired Athenian taverna with many dishes inspired by the notebooks of co-owner Christina Mouratoglou’s Grandma including grilled vine-leaf dolmades with rice and mint yoghurt, there’s a mesmerising bone marrow and meat broth tagliatelle served theatrically tableside, and decadent pistachio ice-cream sandwich.

More locally to me, I was very impressed by my recent return visit to Salt & Smoke in Tooting which I first discovered in its early days in a shipping container in Pop Brixton. It is truly thoughtful and creative and inspired by head chef/co-patron Remi Williams multicultural food vocabulary – he grew up across the US, Nigeria and the UK.

There’s a big yet not preachy emphasis on sustainability, no waste, curing, fermentation, preserving and slow braising techniques with dishes including trimchi pancake and beef fat donut as well as suyu beef and a whole vegan menu too.

Best dishes in London?

I’ve got to start with a few anchovy suggestions as my new book ‘Consider the Anchovy: a journey in pursuit of the little fish with the big flavour’ is a love letter to the anchovy.

The exquisite sweet and sour anchovy eclair snack at Lilibets.

The spinach souffle with anchovy hollandaise at L’Escargot.

The definitive pissaladière on Sketch’s Glade menu.

I also adore the smoked eel sandwich created by Jeremy Lee at Quo Vadis.

The spectacular Veal Milanese at Caldesi restaurant where they also serve a delectable, sophisticated tiramisu.

Plus, crème caramel was my late Mum’s favourite dish and eating the sublime, jiggly crème caramel redolent with vanilla accompanied by an Armagnac prune at Racine is always a most enjoyable way to honour and remember my Mum.

What was the last museum or gallery you visited?

The Tate Modern for Nigerian Modernism which was thrilling and eye-opening. I went with my son whose wife is Nigerian. I loved the works by the late Ben Enwonwul.

I absolutely cannot wait for the Royal Academy’s ‘Painting the French Riviera’ exhibition that sounds as if it was curated with me in mind. I have a chapter in my ‘Consider the Anchovy’ book on how Matisse was enthralled and constantly painted the anchovy fishing boats in Collioure as his new style emerged and his mood lifted.

Where are the best places to shop?

I really like to browse around Marylebone High Street and the roads close by and around Chiltern Street: I adore shopping for cheese and recherché treats at La Fromagerie and Caroline Gardner for beautiful vibrant stationery, quirky accessories, even clothes as well as cards. For smart food shopping, Pavilion Road is fantastic with Natoora, The Sea, The Sea and a gorgeous new tiny coffee shop Pavilion Press selling books and arty magazines too. Most of all, I enjoy neighbourhood shopping. I live close to Northcote Rd and independent shops like Maison Curate are fantastic sources of gifts for my home and for friends.

Preferred bar or pub for a great night out?

Brunswick House’s bar on a Tuesday evening when they have jazz in the downstairs Cellar bar, which is curated by trumpeter Mark Kavuma, the founder of Banger Factory.

Most relaxing place to unwind?

Charlotte Cave hairdressers in East Dulwich where they have state of the art chairs whilst they wash your hair – bliss.

If you had only one day in London, where would you visit?

I think everyone should go The Ritz once their life to experience its dazzling theatre and classic perfection, yet it’s not stuffy. I was fortunate enough to be a guest recently when Bollinger took over the whole restaurant (the first and only time a non-Royal family member has done this) to launch their prestige cuvée La Grand Année 2018. The food is utterly exquisite as is the service.

What is your top London tip?

Walk and be curious, look up, and talk to people.